by Diane Siskin
posted December 3, 2006
It seems lately everywhere I turn Argentina has been on my radar screen.
It may be because I recently returned from this enticing South American nation filled with warm memories of a great visit. And yet, people who haven’t never stepped foot there may still “hone in’’ on its existence but just listening to radio or watching television programs.
Just this week, the airwaves were filled with tales of the “Bush twins’’ birthday celebration in the country.
Maybe they chose Argentina because their dad, President Bush, had made a trip there last November to attend the Summit of the Americas, and recommended the destination to his daughters.
Maybe the Barbara and Jenna Bush were excited because there is a new wave of “Evita’’ (as in Peron) nostalgia in Argentina because the country’s populist President Nestor Kirchner’s wife, Cristina won a senate seat last year.
Maybe there is more interest in the country because Andrew Lloyd Webber’s new CD featuring Broadway Divas includes “Don’t Cry for Me Argentina’’ sung by Madonna and “Buenos Aires,’’ sung by Patti LuPone is currently selling well.
Maybe interest in Argentina has mounted because of feature articles in such diverse publications as the New York Times and AAA magazine. The Times articles featured the country’s capital, Buenos Aires, skiing in Bariloche resorts of the Andes and following the footsteps of native writer and poet Jorge Luis Borges in Buenos Aires. AAA magazine chose instead to focus on the legend of Iguazu Falls, South America’s 300-foot-tall waterfall (considered one of the wonders of the world) that stretches across two countries and two miles.
To preserve the falls and the subtropical rainforest surrounding them, two National Parks were created: Parque National Iguazu in Argentina and Parque Nacional do Iguacu in Brazil.
The nature reserve in Argentina, situated in the far northeast corner of the Misiones Province, has regular rainfall and mild temperatures, conditions that created a dampness-laden, almost windless environment with lots of vegetation.
Unesco declared Iguazu National Park a Natural Heritage of Humanity site in 1984. But the park itself was established on Oct. 9, 1934.
Since my husband and I had chosen Argentina to celebrate a significant event, our wedding anniversary, it seemed appropriate that we visit a site created on the same date (but not in the same year) as our marriage. Our visit to Iguazu was both rewarding and surprising.
We found, much to our astonishment, that the area around the national park and its falls, already boasts an extremely developed tourism structure. There more than 2,600 hotel rooms, an international airport and even a five star resort, the Iguazu Grand Hotel Resort and Casino where we stayed.
The Iguazu Grand Hotel boasts beautiful accommodations, lush grounds, an incredible series of outdoor pools and a full-service spa. It also includes a gambling casino and a fine dining restaurant.
The hotel prides itself on being the greatest entertainment center in the area and well it is as a Leading Small Hotel of the World. The hotel even offers a family fun package.
Within the hotel complex guests can also have easy and instant Internet access. For more information, visit www.iguazugrandhotel.com
Getting to national parks and the falls are easily accomplished. They are but a 10-minute cab ride from the hotel. Hotel taxis are very inexpensive. Those same taxis can also be arranged to pick you up and return you to the airport (about 20 minute ride). The important thing is to request an English-speaking driver or make sure that the hotel’s concierge communicates with the driver beforehand as to your destinations and desires.
Within walking distance of the hotel is a duty-free shopping mall, called Duty Free Shop Puerto Iguazu. Also within a short driving distance in a large duty free mall located on the Brazil side of the falls. But to reach this mall you must cross the Brazilian border and for Americans that requires a visa you have obtained prior to leaving home or the payment of $100 to secure the same for just the shopping expedition or to visit the Brazilian side of the falls.
And within walking or short taxi ride is the town of Iguazu with its numerous shops and restaurants. Our favorite restaurant, which goes by the unlikely name of My Favorite Uncle’s Restaurant (El Quincho del Tio querido). The food is not only excellent, especially the beef dishes, it is also very inexpensively priced. In Iguazu, likewise in Buenos Aires, it is really hard to have a bad meal. It is even harder to have an expensive meal. With the Argentine pesos at more than three to the U.S. dollar, dinners complete with steak, potato or vegetable, salad, wine, dessert, bread and tip rarely cost more than $25.
Within Iguazu National Park there is only one hotel, the Sheraton International Iguazu Resort. It, like, the Iguazu Grand, often stays booked well in advance, especially since it commands not only a spectacular setting, some of its hotel rooms offer a wide expanse view of the falls on non-fog days.
The daily lunch buffet in its Garganta del Diablo restaurant overlooking the falls can’t be beat for taste, variety, cost and ease.
The falls are the main attraction in the national park. But many visitors also come to visit the rainforest, which is home to more than 2,000 vegetable species: trees, large ferns, garden banana trees, wild orchids and epiphytes. The ecosystem is one of the richest and most varied and unique to the Misiones rainforests.
Monkeys, tapirs (a mammal of great size) and myriad bird species, parrots, ducks, partridges and toucans are other draws. We saw a bird’s nest right under the open grillwork of the metal walkway. We also viewed coati (rodent-like animals) found in the park and caimen (alligators).
The park is also noted for its 500 butterfly species. Visitors waiting on the park’s tram took pictures as many of the butterflies alighted on them. This Yra’ (paradise) is truly an unusual and interesting place.
Countless number of waterways cut through the Misiones province. But the Iguazu is one of two good for navigation.
Trams transport park visitors to various stations in the park. Once you alight from the tram expect to walk for 30 minutes along an elevated platform out to get up close and personal with the Devil’s Gorge Falls.
We were surprised to see large groups of tourists trailing guides speaking many different languages. Guides could identify their charges by the lariats they wore around their necks.
Special wheel chairs are available for those in need and baby strollers are permitted. In season be prepared for hordes of visitors. It would do you well to plan a trip to the National Park as you do for Disney World, avoiding the prime tourist times and hours.
On the elevated platform which leads out to the falls there was one cart selling bottled water for three pesos ($1) and but there were photographers lining the viewing platform nearest the Devil’s Gorge Falls the offering to take photos of visitors for approximately $7. The nice part was that you didn’t have to pay for the photograph until it was delivered to your hotel.
Bird watching, horseback riding in the forest, Zodiac boat rides along the river, bicycle rentals are all activities offered in the area. A highlight of one boat ride is to get close enough to the Devil’s Gorge Canyon to feel the spray and mist of the falls.
I met an interesting and informative guide, Antonio Escobar, whose’s company, Empresa Ecologia S.R.L. maintains an outlet in the Hotel Sheraton. He is available by e-mail: remisecologia@arnet.com.ar for information about excursions. He can also provide information about visiting Brazil on half-day trips.
A stay in Buenos Aires, either before or after a visit to the park is a must. The city named the first Unesco City of Design is absolutely beautiful within downtown core. It feels like a cross between Paris, with its very wide boulevards and pre-war buildings and monuments and New York with area around the Obelisk lit at night like Broadway.
Our hotel choice, the Kempinski Hotel Park Plaza, in the beautiful Recoleta neighborhood easily made our stay in the city perfect. The hotel’s location just off the Alvear Avenue, made walking to most of our destinations easy.
The hotel’s ambience is that of a small European inn. The rooms are extremely small, but outfitted well. The small dining room in the lobby serves a full breakfast, included in the rate. It also offers lunch and dinner. For more information, visit www.kempinski.com or www.parkplazahotels.com.
The service of the hotel’s concierges, especially Julian Fiszman, was excellent. We were directed to the restaurants favored by city residents, told where and when to shop and areas to avoid for our own safety. Luckily, unlike the experience of the Bush twins, we met with no calamity during our visit. It pays to listen to what residents of the city have to say about what is and isn’t a dangerous area.
For example they directed us to a long-time established tango show where we had a wonderful time and no problems. Confiteria Ideal was definitely not only ideal but also so nostalgic and enjoyable we didn’t want the evening to end. The show didn’t even start till almost 10:30 p.m.
There are numerous restaurants and clubs, which feature tango shows and lessons. Many are overpriced but do include a set dinner menu and pick-up and return to your hotel.
Getting good recommendations from the hotel staff were Café Tortoni, Moliere Café and Milion.
Likewise we were warned to avoid wandering around the San Telmo, the tango quarter, after dark. If you take one of the city’s huge fleet of radio cabs, to and from well-known tourist clubs, such as El Viejo Almacen, the oldest in the quarter you will have no problem. The taxis are so inexpensive you can take them anywhere just make sure you get into the right cab. If possible have the hotel, restaurant or club call the taxi for you.
Because the first day of our visit was a Sunday and a rainy day we decided to take a half-day city bus tour. It was the perfect choice. We got a feeling for where places were located and how to return to them on our own.
We also got to visit that must-see site, Recoleta Cemetery where among others; Evita Duarte de Peron is buried. When we found the large above ground crypt among the large cemetery located right downtown, we were not alone. Even on a terribly rainy day there were throngs of people.
On the bus tour we got to see all the must-see sites such as the Obelisk, Teatro Colon (which is closed for renovation) as we rode along the Avenue 9 De Julio and the Avenue Libertador.
We even got to see the long lines of Argentians waiting to get into a soccer game
Argentines are friendly people; many speak English and are happy to help you find any location.
Want to get your hair done? It is easy on a Saturday night, but never on Sunday. Are you hungry? Restaurants and cafes serve dinner into night. In fact, most Argentines don’t even arrive at the restaurants till late night. Parrillas, barbecue restaurants are in abundance, as are cafes.
Some we can recommend because of first-hand experience include, La Biela, Justo Corrientes and Happening.
Others recommendations given to us were Casana Las Lilas, Sucre (very expensive) and an area called Puerto Madero, which contains refurbished docks on the river which feature grill houses, the parillas.
(Diane "Cookie" Siskin is a former Chattanoogan now living in Florida with her husband, Charles Siskin. An award-winning travel writer and editor, she can be reached at charlessiskin@earthlink.net)
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Flowers grace Evita Peron's crypt at Recoleta Cemetary in Buenos Aires.
Photograph by Diane Siskin
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