The "Town Crier" of Cardiff, the capital of Wales.
photo by Ann N. Yungmeyer
Tintern Abbey, Wales’ first Cistercian monastery, founded in 1131.
photo by Ann N. Yungmeyer
Wales' lush pastoral landscape near Brecon Beacons National Park.
photo by Ann N. Yungmeyer
No hands donut eating contest at Abergavenny Food Festival.
photo by Ann N. Yungmeyer
Traditional favorites served at Kilverts in Hay-on-Wye
photo by Ann N. Yungmeyer
Selection of local cheeses at Llwynhelyg Farm Shop.
photo by Ann N. Yungmeyer
Wales is better known for golf than gastronomy, thanks in part to hosting the 2010 Ryder Cup; and its unspoiled countryside has long been a favorite escape for Londoners seeking a rural retreat. But Wales’ culinary landscape is ripe for discovery for anyone who enjoys fresh, flavorful cooking and homegrown produce, seasoned with a hint of Welsh heritage.
Exploring the south and mid regions, I traveled with friends through fertile valleys and rolling pastures, along dramatic coastline and village gardens – all which set the stage for our introduction to the local food and drink.
We sampled artisan breads and handmade cheeses, teatime Welsh cakes and organic cider. From chatting with wellie-clad Welshmen foraging mushrooms along a wooded trail to watching wheat being ground at a historic mill, we could see that the Welsh are passionate about preserving the special skills of artisan food production.
Culinary Highlights and other Rarebits
The Bell at Skenfrith is one of Wales’ renowned restaurants in a former 17th century coach house. Chef Rupert Taylor presents a creative and colorful plate, using seasonal produce from his organic kitchen garden and locally sourced meats. The Bell’s ‘mile-long’ wine list includes amusing wine-themed sketches by a local artist.
I chose the New White Lion Inn in Llandovery to try the traditional Welsh rarebit, a dish best described as a grilled cheese fondue, and salt marsh lamb with laverbread – another Welsh delicacy with the quintessential ingredient, seaweed. After dinner, our hostess of the five-star, folklore-themed inn graciously showed us photos of teatime at the inn with Prince Charles, who owns a country home nearby. His country house, surprisingly, is available as a self-catering holiday rental when the royal family is away.
Regardless of availability of Prince Charles’ digs, renting a cottage is a delightful way to experience the vitality of Wales. Our cottage in Crickhowell at the edge of Brecon Beacons National Park was a perfect location for walking to village pubs, exploring beautiful parkland and indulging at the nearby Abergavenny Food Festival.
Among the top-rated food festivals in Great Britain, Abergavenny is a pure culinary celebration with endless produce stalls, demonstrations, master classes, pop-up yurt restaurants, and entertainment. It’s a true homeland event, yet fun for tourists too, with opportunities for guided mushroom forays, fishing excursions, and walks to nearby vineyards. My best discovery was Shepherd’s Ice Cream, a fresh, smooth tasting ice cream made with sheeps milk.
Legend and Literary Bites
With more than 600 castles and historic manors in Wales, you can’t travel far without passing a few legendary landmarks. The Roman fortress and amphitheatre ruins at Caerlon are said to be the location of King Arthur’s Camelot; and nearby, Tintern Abbey stands as Wales’ first Cistercian monastery, founded in 1131. The castle ruins of Carreg Cennen offer spectacular views across the green Carmarthenshire hills and make a fine place to take a picnic spread from one of Wales’ unique farm shops.
The quaint town of Hay-On-Wye is a must-see town on the English border, famous as the “town of books.” With more than 30 bookshops, it is the largest second-hand book center in the world and makes for a wonderful rainy day browse. Cozy cafes and clothing boutiques are also a draw, and the town’s historic castle is lined with bookstalls selling books by the honor system.
Wales’ most celebrated poet and author, Dylan Thomas, grew up on the south coast in Swansea, where the Dylan Thomas Center highlights his works and life story. Fans can walk in his footsteps and sleep in his bed at his birthplace, a lovingly restored 20th century home available for overnight stays. South coast menus feature cockles, a kind of mussel, and further west, the picturesque harbor town of Aberaeron is famous for lobsters and spider crab. Fish and chips are standard fare, served with “mush peas” which are surprisingly textured and tasty.
Wales’ Wine and Spirits
Despite the varied selection of local ales, it’s hard to pass up Wales’ signature brew with a name like “Brains.” Welsh-made ciders are also popular, but I was curious to try the unimaginable – Wales’ wine. Open for tastings, the family-owned Ancre Vineyard in the Wye Valley boasts an unusual mesa climate, ideal for growing grapes. Specializing in boutique wines, Ancre produces a sparkling rose and a pinot noir that stand up to the best.
Penderyn Distillery, also open for tours, produces an award-winning single malt whisky and other spirits including a smooth tasting cream liqueur called Merlyn. Penderyn prides its distinctive taste on its mountain spring water and the aging in barrels from Kentucky and Madeira. And Wales produces a premium mineral water, Tynant, easily recognizable by its artistic blue bottle.
A small country once known as a “culinary desert,” Wales is becoming an oasis for farm-to-table cuisine, as a number of highly trained chefs from Michelin-starred restaurants return to the source and inspire more producers. And now, when in Wales, a journey to culinary adventure is reason enough to raise a toast.
If you go: Wales’ capital, Cardiff, is a two-hour train ride from London and a convenient gateway and attractive cultural center. Signage and brochures are generally printed in both English and Welsh, with about 20% of Wales’ population speaking the native Welsh language. See www.visitwales.com.