Paul Payne: Finally Experiencing The Glory Of St. Andrews' Old Course

Imagine standing on the precipice of achieving a life-long dream, being so tantalizingly close that it was merely a few paces away and yet being forced to walk away empty-handed and unfulfilled.

That was my relationship with the Old Course in St. Andrews for the past quarter of a century.

I had gone to Scotland on a golf marathon that covered eleven different courses in the span of nine days back in 2000. Our trip leader allowed for two days in St. Andrews, banking on the fact we would surely get chosen for the daily ballot to play the revered Old Course.

We were not selected on the first day, opting to play the Jubilee Course instead. Then we strolled through town with our golf clubs strapped to our backs at 4:30 the next morning in hopes of nabbing a spot to get on the Old only to discover there were two dozen folks ahead of us who had the same idea.

We stood there and watched golfers embark on their journey around the historic links layout, and by 8 a.m. we were informed by the starter that the full daily tee sheet didn’t offer much promise for us. So rather than waiting around the rest of the morning, we hopped over and played the neighboring New Course that runs alongside the Old, constantly looking over with envy at those who were fortunate enough to spend the morning walking where legends have trod.

We were able to sneak onto the Road Hole and Swilcan Bridge for a few photos before departing town the next morning. One rather portly member of our entourage actually got stuck in the Road Hole bunker while posing for a picture and had to be extracted by a pair of golfers playing the hole. Being in St. Andrews without adding the Old to my resume’ left a twinge of disappointment that has gnawed at me for years.

But all of those years of regret came to an end last week.

I journeyed back to St. Andrews under the pretense of working on a story I’m writing for a national publication, meeting up with Memphis native and 2024 Tennessee Mid-Amateur champion Winston Margaritis who is spending the year competing for University of St. Andrews as a member of their Golf Scholars program as a graduate student.

Joining me was a long-time friend from my years in Alabama, Chris Goodman. He is a hall of fame high school coach that I had assisted for 15 years as he won multiple state softball championships at Alabama Christian Academy in Montgomery.

Winston was able to finagle us a tee time on the Old Course, and we were joined by his teammate, Michael Crowley, last week on an overcast day with winds gusting north of 30 miles per hour. Our group was accompanied by a pair of grizzled veteran Scottish caddies, Neil and Davie, who have accumulated almost 80 years of combined experience traversing those hallowed grounds. They were expert guides who were not afraid to express their displeasure when I failed to execute their instructions. Neil’s sighs of displeasure still echo in my mind as I struggled on the homeward nine, but he would always respond with a word of encouragement.

It seems impossible to miss the first fairway that measures 129 yards across, but this is no ordinary opening tee shot. Situated in the shadow of the Royal & Ancient Clubhouse with a cadre of onlookers lining the fence, there was a mixture of awe and nerves as I pulled the trigger on my drive. Fortunately, I was able to par the first on what was sure to be a memorable four-hour jaunt immersed in history.

A birdie on No. 4 left me at 1-over, but that proved to be the highlight of my round where I ultimately signed for an 86 after three-putting at 18. But there was a sense of closure that unfolded as we made our way around the legendary links, a feeling of catharsis as my 26 years of unmet anticipation finally met reality.

The combination of the seven holes that feature double greens, the constant buffeting from the winds, the perilous sod-stacked bunkers and the impenetrable gorse in full bloom provided us with a smorgasbord of all that the Old Course had to offer. Words simply cannot capture the essence of what makes this place special.

There is a raw beauty about the Old Course, its tumbling fairways concealing bunkers eager to swallow even purely struck shots and the humps and swales of the greens serving as a stout test of one’s mental firmament. The Old is one of eight golf courses that comprises the St. Andrews Links Trust, and the entire town is passionate about golf with the same fervor as SEC football fans.

Coach Goodman had his own memorable moment after striking his tee shot over the corner of the Old Course Hotel on No. 17. As he walked to his ball, he received a Face Time call where he was introduced to his newborn grandson who entered this world only minutes earlier. As a matter of disclosure, he made the trip with the blessings of his daughter, Bailey, who wasn’t due to deliver until we returned. He then proceeded to par both 17 and 18 to close his round, a fitting way to celebrate the newest addition to his family.

We celebrated our round as invited guests of the St. Andrews Golf Club, the oldest golf club in the world founded in 1843 overlooking the 18^th green. The trophy cases were filled with priceless treasures chronicling the genesis of golf in the town including a salute to its dozen members who accounted for 21 Open Championship titles.

We tackled the beast called Carnoustie – otherwise known as “Car-nasty” - the next day, being randomly paired with a couple of golfers from Tennessee. It lived up to its reputation as the world’s most challenging golf course made even more severe thanks to the persistent winds and rain.

One final round on the New Course – how many “new” courses can be traced back to 1895? – wrapped up our golfing exploits, and we spent the rest of our time retracing many of the historical happenings in St. Andrews as well as enjoying the town’s quaint charm.

This was more than simply a golf trip…it was a pilgrimage to the home of golf, the completion of some unfinished business that was 26 years in the making. What the scorecard revealed did not begin to tell the full story. Instead, what lingers is the opportunity to walk the same fairways as golf’s greatest legends accompanied by good friends enjoying the game as it was meant to be experienced.

Paul Payne can be emailed at paulpayne6249@gmail.com