On The Quiet Side Of Rocky Mountain National Park: 3 Splendid Stays In Grand County, Colorado

Craving an escape from summer heat and humidity to the crisp mountain air of Colorado? Think Grand County, a spectacular destination surrounded by Rocky Mountain peaks, alpine lakes, and quaint mountain towns in north-central Colorado. Grand County offers abundant outdoor and nature adventures, from wildlife viewing to hiking and lake activities; and it is considered the Western Gateway to Rocky Mountain National Park (RMNP).

Also home to the Winter Park Ski Area, Grand County is quite popular in winter; yet as a summer destination, it is relatively overlooked among tourists. The charming town of Grand Lake at the west entrance of RMNP is known as the quiet side of the heavily visited park, much like Townsend, Tennessee enjoys the reputation as “the peaceful side of the Smokies.”

As a former Colorado resident, I had briefly visited parts of Grand County, but on my recent trip I took a Denver airport shuttle to the town of Granby and spent time exploring the area between Lake Granby and Grand Lake. I got a taste of glamping, a cozy cabin and ranch vacation – all great ways to experience this unsung corner of scenic Colorado.

Arapaho Valley Ranch

If you like camping or glamping and have the family in tow, head for Arapaho Valley Ranch in a secluded wilderness area near the shores of Lake Granby. It’s a likely spot to see moose, and though it feels remote, the ranch property is just 2.5 hours by car from Denver.

With views of snow-capped peaks, Arapaho Valley Ranch offers a choice of glamping tents, yurts, cabins, and tent and RV sites spread around a small lake and wooded hills overlooking the Colorado River. There is also a modern house, ideal for a large group rental. Cabins have kitchenettes, and camping is made easy in the glamping tents, tipis and yurts which include a camp kitchen box as well as propane grills and stoves, microwaves and coffee makers. The main lodge has a gift shop with drinks and snacks but guests should bring their own provisions, as no food is served at the lodge except by special arrangement.

Activities on-site include fishing, canoeing, stand-up paddleboarding, biking, hiking, volleyball and a playground. The best amenity? All equipment is provided; guests need only to register at the gift shop to borrow gear. Popular excursions nearby include Monarch Lake and Lake Granby and the town of Granby for shopping, restaurants and entertainment.

After a day of outdoor fun, the Red Dog Saloon – deemed Colorado’s tiniest bar – is the place to gather at Arapaho Valley’s main lodge, and there is live music on the porch on weekends.

The property operates self sustainably, generating electricity through solar power, using propane for heat, and pumping water from a deep well. Cabins and yurts are open year-round while glamping, tipis, and camp sites are available Memorial Day weekend through early October.

“Fall is in many ways the most vibrant of the seasons, and that’s the season when we welcome serious photographers as well as passionate recreationists and wildlife watchers,” says ranch manager, Hayden Hughes. “Another reason travelers flock to this Rocky Mountain region in the fall is to observe the antics of the frisky wildlife, especially elk and moose. It’s not uncommon for guests to see moose frolicking in and around the ranch’s Little Indian Lake. Travelers can also head to Rocky Mountain National Park to see – and hear – male elk compete for the attention of females by fighting and bugling. Bears can also be observed as they gorge on pine nuts in preparation for a long winter’s nap in their dens.”

Drowsy Water Ranch

For an all-inclusive ranch vacation and a lively spirit of the West, with cowboys and your own horse for the week, head to Drowsy Water Ranch. Tucked in a private mountain valley near Granby, the 700-acre property has hosted guests for more than 90 years. In classic dude ranch style, Drowsy Water offers family-style meals and activities including horseback riding, rafting, rock climbing, zipline, hiking and square dancing.

Freshly prepared meals are served in a cozy dining room, with some choices available and personal preferences honored. You’ll also have breakfast on a mountaintop, chuckwagon lunches and barbeques on the lawn. Cabins are rustic but charming and comfortable. My sister and I stayed in a large cabin with six ensuite rooms geared for guests who are not part of family or group. We enjoyed the flower-bedecked front porch and common living room which served as a fun gathering spot for chatting with other guests.

Riding is a large part of the ranch experience; after all the best views are from atop a horse. Drowsy Water‘s 100+ horses are bred, raised and trained to provide an enjoyable riding experience for all levels of riders. The ranch places great emphasis on learning trail riding technique, safety, and getting to know your horse, which is assigned after a consultation with a wrangler. Each rider rides first in the ring for instruction and to ascertain suitable ride choices based on trail terrain and length. Starting in the valley, most rides traverse up the mountainsides opening up to vast meadows with exquisite views of the Continental Divide.

Drowsy Water has been owned and operated by the Fosha family since 1977, who has a reputation for unpretentious quality. The ranch is very much a family affair with three generations involved in various capacities. Each family member, as well as the friendly staff, exudes enthusiasm, pride and a love for sharing the Western ranch experience. Drowsy Water accommodates children of all ages, with optional childcare and a Range-Rider program for ages 6-13. With roughly 50 guests per week, Drowsy Water offers an intimate experience and built-in opportunities to make new friends. Their season runs from June to mid-September.

Grand Lake

If you want an in-town vacation base, walkable to restaurants, shops, hiking and lake sports, head for the historic town of Grand Lake, dubbed “the soul of the Rockies” for its beautiful lakeside setting and rich history. Here you’ll find vacation rentals, cabins, and classic mountain hotels, the most prestigious being Grand Lake Lodge. The log lodge and its numerous hillside cabins perch on a high ridge overlooking the lake and town. It’s a steep hike down or up from town but an easy, albeit roundabout, two-mile drive to town center and the lakeshore. Amenities at Grand Lake Lodge include an outdoor pool, lounge area and playground, and a cozy tavern serving meals and craft cocktails. Rocking chairs and porch swings beckon; we enjoyed the panoramic views as we sat mesmerized by a storm rolling in over the mountains and lake.

The town offers Historic Walking Tours that begin at the Kauffman House (a former hotel, circa 1892), now a museum showcasing turn-of-the-century Grand Lake life. We strolled along Grand Avenue and the boardwalk which accesses kayak and boat rentals, a public beach and waterfront eateries. Our guide was particularly proud of the most famous landmark – the still passionate Grand Lake Yacht Club going strong since 1912.

Grand Lake is Colorado’s largest natural body of water, though it is actually smaller than nearby reservoirs and manmade lakes. It is a glacial lake with a depth of 265 feet, surrounded by majestic peaks. Grand Lake’s history as a hidden gem hails back to the Ute and Arapaho native American tribes who summered by the lake before it was discovered by trappers, hunters and explorers. In the early 1900s, travelers could reach the remote area by stagecoach and soon wealthy tourists began building classy lakefront homes, many which have graced the shores for generations of families. Grand Lake is connected by a small channel and harbor area to the larger Shadow Mountain Lake, and with Granby Lake also nearby, the region is sometimes referred to as the Three Lakes area.

From the edge of town, you can drive the awe-inspiring Trail Ridge Road for 48 miles one-way across Rocky Mountain National Park. Open seasonally, it is the highest continuous paved road in the United States, climbing to an elevation of 12,183 feet. The park spans the Continental Divide with numerous famous hikes and spots for wildlife viewing. Among the most visited parks in the National Park System, RMNP attracts some 4.5 million visitors every year, most of whom approach from the eastern entrances near Estes Park.

A highlight of my visit in the park was a group horseback ride with Winding River Resort. Our wrangler led us along the Colorado River and up a wooded hillside into a massive wildfire burn area. We learned about the Colorado wildfires of 2020 which were particularly devastating, burning thousands of acres in Grand County and RMNP. We rode directly through the torched forest of blackened tree trunks, which was eerie and depressing to see but at the same time hopeful, thanks to the new growth and regeneration of ground grasses and new trees that stand already several feet tall. In the nearly five years since the devastation, the area has largely recovered, although the memories and scarred remnants will be part of Grand County’s story for a long time.

From gentle shoreline strolls to high country hikes, Grand Lake offers a mix of national park and forest service trails, with some RMNP trailheads starting directly in town. With the variety of nature activities, lake recreation, scenic drives and viewpoints, it’s easy to imagine the area becoming another Colorado hotspot.

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Ann Newell Yungmeyer is a freelance travel writer and Chattanooga native. www.Annyungmeyer.wordpress.com