Discovering "Treasure" On Colorful Curacao

  • Friday, April 10, 2009
  • Ann Newell Yungmeyer

The Dutch Antilles island of Curacao has been called the Caribbean's hidden treasure, a metaphor which perhaps led to the island's current marketing promotion. A free trip for two to Curacao is being given away every day through May 23, plus the chance to be one of 10 finalists to participate in an on-island treasure hunt for $500,000. Travelers from North America can participate by visiting www.curacaotreasure.com to enter the contest to win.

I, for one, am registering daily and hoping for a trip, all the while remembering unexpected treasures I discovered on my first visit to the island last year.

The whimsical colors of Curacao's harborfront drew me in at first glance. In the port city of Willemstad, the tidy row of Dutch colonial buildings in juicy colors of mango, pink and papaya is reminiscent of a storybook scene - an artistic rendering of perfect quaintness.

Yet my most vivid image of Curacao is one of local color, set on the island's hilly western end where cactus and calabash rise out of dense thicket, and old plantation homes dot the countryside. There, I watched three young boys emerge from thorny brush with huge iguanas dangled around their necks and hanging from their pockets. Regie, our island guide, explained that the creatures (still alive) were headed to market to become fried iguana, an island delicacy. Regie regaled us with tales of hunting technique and began to enlighten us about other local cuisine: goat stew and cactus soup. The latter known to be healthily cleansing to one's intestinal system, I vowed to try some.

The island's "outback" reflects one of many island cultures. Often described as "Caribbean with a European flair," Curacao has lively cafes, historic floating markets and specialty boutiques offering perfumes, cigars and the famous Cura�ao liqueur. The island is also a tropical paradise with exquisite beaches and superb diving in crystalline, turquoise waters. But it only takes a short time of exploring to understand that Curacao's story runs deep, and its people are as proud of their rich cultural heritage as they are of the island's spectacular beauty.

Like neighboring Aruba and Bonaire, Curacao was colonized by the Dutch in the 17th century. The island prospered as a trading port, particularly for African slave trade, and attracted settlers and merchants from Europe, South America and Asia. The influence of many ethnic groups is evident in island art, festivals, cuisine and notably, language. Four languages are widely spoken: Dutch, Spanish, English and Papiamentu, a Creole tongue that came about as African slaves blended several languages. Papiamentu has remained a binding element in the island's multicultural society.

Willemstad's early forts and landmark buildings have been historically preserved, earning the city UNESCO World Heritage designation in 1997. One of many outstanding revitalization projects was the restoration of a dilapidated neighborhood into the village hotel, Kura Hulanda. An eight-block area was converted to terraced suites, courtyard gardens, galleries, cafes and restaurants.

I traveled back in time as the bellman led me through the European-style village square, down a cobbled path, past an historic cabaret and the old hospital to my guestroom, a former residence. Created by Dutch entrepreneur and visionary Jacob Gelt Dekker, the complex includes an eco-pool, spa, casino and museum. A visit to Museum Kura Hulanda and its exhibit of the trans-Atlantic slave trade is an emotional experience. The museum houses the largest collection of African artifacts in the Caribbean.

Dekker's affinity for African art is also seen in the d'cor at Lodge Kura Hulanda, a recent beachfront development on the western coast. Perched on a cliff overlooking the sea, the thatched-roofed resort offers snorkeling, diving, hiking, and mountain biking at nearby Christoffel Park. Adventurous guests may opt for the ultimate, unique accommodation in the property's deluxe treetop suite, accented in safari theme.

Not forgetting about cactus soup, we chose Angelicas's Kitchen for dinner, where guests take part in preparing local cuisine before dining together. While I envisioned skinning a lizard or peeling a cactus, I was slightly relieved to find that Angelica, an island native and pharmacist in an earlier career, prefers other island specialties; our menu would include tomato-cucumber salsa, sardine puffs, plantain soup, jerk chicken with rice, and raisin-pumpkin pancakes drizzled in Curacao liqueur for dessert.

Angelica appointed me to the dessert team with two gentlemen who are developing a resort community under construction, Santa Barbara Plantation. Between flipping pancakes I learned about the 1,500-acre property which majestically wraps around a point on Curacao's southeastern side with panoramic views from inlet to open blue sea. Santa Barbara includes homes, a marina, the Hyatt Regency Resort & Spa, and an 18-hole Pete Dye-designed golf course. My cooking partners conveyed a commitment to preservation of nature and history of the land - from archiving historical Arawak Indian artifacts found on the property to maintaining the dramatic natural contours and environmental attributes of the terrain. "It's the changing elevation and the craggy, desert-like landscape contrasting with lush mangrove estuaries that set this apart," they said.

Curacao's natural splendor and cultural history are manifested in the distinctive qualities of many new resort communities and island attractions. The true "treasure" of Curacao is defined by its diverse nature, from varied landscapes, beach coves and reefs to a veritable melting pot of more than 50 nationalities. While the iguana hunt is customary for some, Curacao, at the heart, thrives on diversity. Even its famed liqueur comes in a palette of colors.
More to See and Do on Curacao

Sea Aquarium, dolphin academy
National Underwater Park, diving
Beach Coves, cliff jumping
Christoffel National Park, touring, hiking and mountain biking
Caves, Indian rock art
Landhuizen (Plantation Houses) - art galleries, distillery, herb garden, herbal traditions
Mikve Israel-Emanuel Synagogue, oldest functioning synagogue in Western Hemisphere
Curacao Carnival (Jan-Feb)
Rif Fort Renaissance Resort and Casino, infinity pool
Specialty and duty-free shopping - jewelry, clothing, Dutch imports, cigars
contact: Curacao Tourism Corporation (973) 353-6200 http://www.curacao.com/

Former Chattanoogan Ann Newell Yungmeyer can be reached at ayungmeyer@gmail.com


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