Cycling the Isar Springs trail from Mittenwald.
Kayaking the Isar River near Mittenwald
Colorful houses with traditional Bavarian facades.
Foothills trails overlook the Olympic ski jump in Garmisch-Partenkirchen.
A hiker's view from the deck of Pfeiffer Alm, one of many gasthaus terraces along the foothills trails.
Garmisch-Partenkirchen
A walker heads toward the Zugspitz
Germany’s Oktoberfest brings more than five million revelers to Munich each year for the celebrated beer hall experience. Should one wish to add a healthy dose of fresh mountain air and awe-inspiring scenery to the liter steins of beer, brats and polka music – the Bavarian Alps are only a short train ride away.
Leaving Munich for a few days in Garmisch-Partenkirchen, I had a hint that I was headed for outdoor paradise when everyone on the train had boots, backpack, or a bike. Undoubtedly, the dramatic alpine scenery and outdoor adventure are the main draw along Germany’s southern border.
The historic town of Garmisch-Partenkirchen has been known as a winter sports venue and ski jumping center since hosting the 1936 Olympics. Named for two villages that have grown together, the town is now a year round sports and leisure center, billed as one of Germany’s premium-class climatic health resorts, a designation based on clean air, clear water and unspoiled countryside.
Garmisch Tourism offers Nordic walking excursions and various guided hikes, including “climatic exercise therapy” walks. My husband and I signed on with climate therapist, Christine Sollner, who promised to show us how to achieve the maximum workout by walking a rhythmic pace at changing altitudes, using proper breathing and checking our pulse at rest stops. We walked from Hotel Drei Mohren along the historic pedestrian street, Ludwigstrasse, through forest and upland meadows to a terraced gasthaus (guesthouse), before looping back to town. Christine’s formula is simple: “exercising in the fresh air keeps you fit, and being in the mountains you experience a sense of well-being that is rooted in nature’s elemental force.” Year round walking in the hills is possible, as parts of the trail are maintained by snow removal in wintertime.
Surrounded by breathtaking, jagged peaks and high meadows, Garmisch’s lush valley floor is dominated by Germany’s highest mountain, Zugspitz. Accessible by cog railway, the Zugspitz is one of many area mountains with tram service or ski lifts that allow visitors to experience the high, panoramic views and hike or ride back down. From Zugspitz, the 360-degree view encompasses more than 400 peaks in Germany, Austria, Switzerland and Italy. The base of the mountain offers hiking opportunities from the village of Hammersbacher, including one we took along an uphill waterfall trail to a historic hut and “biergarten,” precariously perched against the mountain rockface.
The roaring waterfalls of Partnach Gorge offer one of Bavaria’s geologic wonders with a number of beautiful hiking trails accessed from Garmisch’s Olympic Ski station. The scenic gorge is accessible for non-walkers by horse-drawn carriage. Pathways steeped in history lead to mountain huts with sunny terraces, including a favorite hike to the idyllic Schachen Chalet, built in 1871 as King Ludwig II’s mountain refuge. The chalet offers summer lodging to hikers.
In addition to hiking, popular recreational activities include kayaking, paragliding, mountain biking and cycling. From the extensive network of bike paths connecting many attractive villages in the region, we chose to explore Mittenwald by bike. With storybook charm, Mittenwald is known for violin making and for its exquisite façade paintings, which tell stories about Bavarian life and traditions. We rented bikes at the Bahnhof (train station) and rode the gorgeous Isar Springs Trail, a slightly uphill riverside path that leads into the mountains and ends at an alpine biergarten. An out and back 40-kilometer roundtrip, one can relax and refuel with a plate of cheese and sausages and a tall Lowenbrau before the return ride.
From mountain biergarten to Munich beer hall, a festive atmosphere is likely to be found most any time of year in Germany. We happened upon the ultimate alpine beer fest on Drei Mohren’s tented terrace – with entertainment by lederhosen-dressed Bavarian musicians and an impromptu performance of harmonious yodeling by a group of hikers, some 20 men strong.
If you go: Garmisch Tourism provides a list of more than 15 recommended hikes, many suitable for families, with easy access from town center. Options include cable car or chair lift rides and marked trails to alpine restaurants and overnight lodging. From the traditional Bavarian gasthaus to the historic Atlas Post Hotel, rates are reasonable, especially during shoulder season. A rental car is not necessary, as hotel guests in Garmisch-Partenkirchen are provided with a bus pass for free travel around town and to the ski areas.
Visit http://www.germany.travel/en/index.html
Sidebar: Yodeling began as a form of communication over large distances for calling out to friends on neighboring alms or to signal distress. Want to learn? Day-long yodeling seminars are taught in the hills of Garmisch by yodel “king” Josef Ecker, in an effort to preserve genuine Bavarian traditions.
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Ann Yungmeyer is a freelance writer. Read more travel adventures at www.annyungmeyer.wordpress.com.