Maine, Your Adventure Waiting To Happen

Sunday, October 13, 2002
Melinda And Bart Whiteman

Consider Maine. You may think of it as remote. Or part of Canada. Or that creepy place where Stephen King sets all his novels.

But if you don’t go yourself, someone really should take you there. I went for the first time when I was young. I was taken by my father. I actually had family on Mount Desert Island.

I saw Mount Cadillac, the spot where the morning sunlight first hits America each morning. I swam in the very cold water and got out very quickly, but I went back in. I sailed the coastline, detailed and dotted with hundreds of islands – as splendid an adventure as can be imagined.

Ten years later, a job took me there, teaching tennis in Blue Hill. At night, I listened to seals barking on the rocks by the shore. I lived in a little cabin with a wood stove.

“Maine springtime is not known for its showiness, but is a subtle, slow awakening, appreciated more for its quiet clues than boisterous displays.” This description could also readily apply to Mainers as well.

Remember that when visiting such a beautiful state which offers not only a glimpse into our American past, but also a relaxing diversion from our American present.

Each season has beauty and engagement written all over it. During the summertime, King Lobster rules, and there are plenty of these “bugs” (the locals’ affectionate nickname for those tasty sea critters) all over the place in fine restaurants, but more acceptably (and less expensively) in road-side “bug shacks.” The more casual the dress there the better. They’re characteristically delicious wherever you find them!

Maine is blessed with an abundance of wilderness and natural resources which makes autumn a spectacular and bearable parting from summers’ beauty.

You can enjoy all the pleasures of the season – hiking, hunting, canoeing, camping, fishing, sailing – but without the summer vacation crowds.

Watch out though, it’s also mating season for the largest of hoofed animals, the majestic moose! I hear you will practically need a motorbike to escape the lust-driven charge of a lovesick moose on the loose!

Winters, as cold and ominous as they can sometimes be, are classically beautiful in their own Maine way. Remember “White Christmas”? Hold that thought!

You can reach Maine by car, driving up the east coast through Providence and Boston, if you want to explore more of New England, or by boat (my choice), or by plane flying into smaller airports or larger terminals in Augusta, Bangor, Bar Harbor, and Portland. USAirways is efficient and accommodating in arranging any of your travel needs.

If you arrive via Portland, I recommend the short drive into the charming town of Freeport, and during any season, a stay at the lovely Harraseeket Inn. Family owned and operated, every amenity is afforded to make your stay at a home away from home a winner. It is situated conveniently on Main Street, which is filled with interesting shops.

The L.L. Bean flagship outlet is even better than the catalogue with merchandise at bargain prices. Brown Goldsmiths, another family owned enterprise since the 1960’s, has a creative selection of fine jewelry and accessories in their on-site studio. These are clearly artisans who are meticulous and passionate about their craft.

The Harraseeket Inn also offers deductions in hosting students of L.L. Bean’s Discovery Programs, honeymoon packages, and other specials. The menu is varied and prepared deliciously, and the wine list is outstanding.

The in-house Tavern is a relaxing spot for lunch or an after dinner glass of port followed by a late night or early morning dip inside at the pool. Perhaps this is the way life was meant to be.

Both culturally and physically, New England is closer in many ways to Old England than to mid-America, most notably along the craggy coastline dotted with small towns whose histories go back as early as the 1600’s.

The charm of the architecture and landscapes is pleasing as you explore nearby Waldo County up the coastline. Augusta is the capital of Maine, but the town of Belfast has the feel of a larger hub with its maritime port, and surrounding attractions.

New England coasts were first settled by sailors and with them came the enormous sea captains’ homes built facing the ocean. These homes now serve as some of the loveliest B&B’s in the area.

Nearby Searsport is home to the important Penobscot Maritime Museum chock full of impressive oil paintings, early ship models, scrimshaw, oriental porcelains collected during the Opium Wars, letters from sailors to loved ones and lots more documenting a chapter of seafaring exploits, both in the Battle for Independence and in foreign trade.

As for ship models, down the way you’ll find the Blue Jacket Ship Crafters which continues the tradition of fine ship-modeling, but in this case from kits. These detailed models come in all shapes, sizes, and price tags as well as custom work.

Fort Knox gives us a look at how Mainers planned on protecting their territory during the American Revolution, the War of 1812, and the Spanish-American War. Remember the motto on the state flag: “Don’t Tread on Me.” I’ve got the feeling they really meant it!

The fort was designed by a 20-year-old West Point grad, and though no enemy ships ever actually came down the Penobscot River, there was lots of fire power in the event they had!

You’ll also find in Waldo County a wide array of possibilities to satisfy your interests from antiquing, arts and crafts, duck decoys, fine wines, pottery or rare books and jazz records, and the list goes on.

The Cellardoor Winery is a 1790 farmhouse B&B, whose vineyard produces some unique selections. Their apple wine was tasty – it reminded me of one I enjoyed a while back in Calvados, France.

You won’t find any billboards advertising these special places, thank goodness, but you will find entrepreneurs who know what they’re doing, and they do it with a smile.

So, whether you’re looking for wilderness exploration, appreciation of the deep history of our nation, great fishing and seafood, or meeting some of the nicest Yankees around, make Maine your next adventure. It’s a world all its own.

Maine contacts:
Freeport Merchants Association
800-865-1994

Harraseeket Inn, Freeport
800-342-6423
www.harraseeketinn.com

Muddy Rudder Inn & Restaurant, Freeport
800-998-2583
www.freeportinn.com

Atlantic Seal Cruises, Freeport
207-865-6112

Brown Goldsmiths, Freeport
207-865-6962
207-865-1678 (fax)

Waldo County Marketing Association
800-870-9934
www.waldocountymaine.com

Homeport Inn, Searsport
800-742-5814

Harbor View House of 1807, Belfast
877-393-3811
www.harborviewhouse.com

Belfast Harbor Inn, Belfast
800-545-8576
www.belfastharbor.inn

The Lobster Pound Restaurant, Lincolnville Beach
207-789-5555

Anglers Restaurant, Searsport
207-548-2405

Penobscot Marine Museum, Searsport
207-548-2529
www.penobscotmarinemuseum.org