Though not vegetarian, I've been an enthusiast of vegetarian restaurants for years. There are simply times when one wants to dine free of meat and dairy, and to enjoy the natural flavor of fruits and vegetables.
Enter Country Life Vegetarian Restaurant and Bakery on Market Street. According to their Web site, Country Life is the city's first and only 100% vegetarian restaurant, using no dairy, eggs, or animal by-products. They're preaching to the choir here. Sometimes I want a vegetable plate to be a vegetable plate, and not worry whether my green beans or collards were cooked with fatback.
Let it be known I'm a Country Life fan, having dined at numerous CL eateries through the years, including Ringgold Road and the legendary location near Music Row in Nashville. When I heard they had new digs in the historic Hardie and Caudle building, I had to drag an associate downtown to check it out. Don't fail to copy the contact information at the end of this article. As if their management is taking a cue from Zarzour's operating manual, a diligent search of the phone book for "Country Life" will yield no listing.
Chattanooga needed a healthful, vegetarian choice in the business district, and such a restaurant in a beautifully restored 1923 building adds a touch of sophistication to downtown. And beautifully restored it is. The turn-of-the-century splendor of this structure remains magnificently intact, while updated with a casual, comfortably appointed dining room.
The gentle clinking of real plates, bowls, and silverware pleasantly signaled we weren't going to be dining with foam, paper, and plastic wares. Kudos to the management! Anything less would be unseemly - and downright inappropriate - for this architectural testament to the city's history.
The dining duo strolled past a small but freshly stocked salad bar in order to reach a cafeteria-style serving line of hot entrees and steamed vegetables. I selected the macaroni artichoke soup, lentil loaf, steamed broccoli, and single-trip salad bar. My associate was quick to pick the chicken-style enchilada with Mexican rice, Brussel sprouts, and cherry pie.
A large cooler next to the salad bar was full of health oriented soft drinks, juices, and bottled waters. We both opted for the free plain water from a 5-gallon dispenser next to the cash register and headed for the dining area.
My broccoli was noticeably understeamed and could have used more time in the sauna. Adroitly anchored with a fork, it took some back and forth sawing with a knife to get this baby separated. Once again, hats off to the management for real silverware. Plastic would have been no match for this broccoli.
This vegetable was curiously coated with what we ultimately agreed was dried leaf oregano. The flavor of fresh steamed broccoli is so wonderful and delicate, I can't believe any chef would deliberately blanket it with such an overwhelming herb. Just a drizzle of olive oil or butter - uh, I mean soy margarine - would do the trick.
Benefit of the doubt is due here. I suspect it was unintentional, as if an open jar of oregano fell from the cupboard, coating the broccoli. Rather than rinsing and drying all that broccoli, the chef probably decided to save valuable time by shaking off the excess herb. Whatever the explanation, my favorite green vegetable languished on the plate even as I left the building.
The lentil loaf was a major disappointment. For all practical purposes, lentil loaf is a vegetarian equivalent of meat loaf, and to the untrained eye, it has a similar appearance. On this visit it was exceedlingly dry, flavorless, and cloaked with what looked like a layer of nearly dehydrated tomato paste. It did not measure up to the moist and savory version I've enjoyed at other Country Life venues. Either this crew is working with another recipe, or a valiant effort at lentil loaf went awry.
My dining partner was pleased with the flavor of the chicken-style enchilada. The Mexican rice was tasty, though she indicated it was somewhat dry.
The Brussel sprouts, suffering a fate similar to that of the broccoli, were drenched in a non-dairy, cashew-based cheese sauce. Freshly steamed Brussel sprouts don't require much help to be satisfying and naturally delicious. A drizzle of olive oil or a non-dairy equivalent to butter would have sufficed. It would also be a plus for the diner to be offered the option of sauce or no sauce.
"Cashew cheese sauce on your sprouts, sir?
"Please, no - I beg of you! Kindly slide me some sprouts, but don't lift that ladle!"
Indeed there were some show-stealers. The macaroni artichoke soup was both eye appealing and palate-pleasing. A colorful combination of carrots, onion, celery, artichoke, lentils, and tender macaroni, the flavor was straightforward and wholesome. I'd wager this pot of soup began with a foundation of rich, savory vegetable stock.
The salad bar was delightful, as bright green, crisp hearts of Romaine took center stage. I piled on the chopped tomatoes, kidney beans, sweet peas, kernel corn, sliced green and black olives, cucumbers, green peppers, and garbanzos. Never mind that it's a single-trip bar; the generous, sturdy bowls and plates will hold lots of salad. Of the three dressings offered (Thousand Island, chive, and dill), Thousand Island was the most impressive. Noticeably absent was the fabulous Tomato French dressing, a popular mainstay at other Country Life locations. I wish it had been available and strongly suggest that you ask for it.
The cherry pie's wheat crust was unremarkable and rather heavy. The all too perfect crimping suggested an institutional pie crust, and the soy-based whipped topping resembled a dollop of dried Plaster of Paris. Not a problem; just scrape off the topping and eat the pie.
The cherry filling in particular was sensational, and perhaps the best I've tasted. Most cherry pie fillings are an artificially red, syrupy sweet, gelatinous mass. Not here. These are dark, plump, tender cherries with an appropriate, yet not overwhelming sweetness, and just oozing with natural juice. If the crust had been nice and flaky, I'd have left with a whole pie. Until then, I'll long to spoon this filling over a generous bowl of ice cream - er, I mean soy ice cream!
Country Life couldn't have made a better move, landing feet first in a prime downtown location that most restauranteurs would envy, and probably do. You'll encounter a comfortable, visably clean establishment with a friendly, accommodating staff. Additionally, the prices are extremely reasonable.
Although there were some culinary missteps on this visit, I'll most certainly return for soup and salad bar, while scouting for some entrees (and steamed vegetables) more consistent with Country Life's reputation. But I first want to make certain someone sealed and secured the oregano.
Country Life Vegetarian Restaurant and Bakery
809 Market St.
Chattanooga, TN 37402
Phone: 423-634-9925
Prices: $1.89 (soup), $2.49 - $4.99 (small or large salad bar), $5.49 (entree & two sides)
Sunday - Thursday 11:30 am - 2:30 pm
Friday 11:30 am - 1:30 pm
Credit Cards: Yes, most major.
Checks: Yes
Smoking: Oh, get real.
Parking: On the street
Web: http://www.wildwoodlsc.org/countrylife.htm
(The Finicky Gourmet© was conceived from Jay Lewis' affinity for food and his penchant for talking about it. Jay returns soon as The Persnickety Gourmet©. Be watching for mouth-waterin' (or knuckle-crackin') reviews as The Persnickety Gourmet© visits a restaurant near you. PersnicketyGourmet@yahoo.com)