Hal Yungmeyer rides part of the Green Route on a converted railway line in the Eastern Townships of Quebec.
photo by Ann Newell Yungmeyer
Converted railway lines offer excellent cycling opportunities in the Eastern Townships.
photo by Stephane Lemire
Hal Yungmeyer rides part of the Green Route on a converted railway line in the Eastern Townships of Quebec.
Learning the history of chocolate is one reason to visit the Chocolate Museum in Bromont, Quebec.
Round barns are typical in the Eastern Townships, Quebec, Canada.
Quaint shops invite browsing in the village of North Hatley, Quebec.
In southern Appalachia, we have our share of scenic views and fall foliage. But travelers venturing to the northern reaches of the Appalachian range will find brilliant, colorful landscapes and the added attraction of a unique culture in the province of Quebec, Canada.
Just north of Vermont, the region known as the Eastern Townships is touted as offering “New England charm with a Quebecois flair,” hailing back to its 18th century settlers who were New England Loyalists and others who later came from Ireland, Great Britain and different parts of Quebec (New France).
This largely rural area of forest, fields and lakes is dotted with historic villages, steepled churches, dairy farms and apple orchards. Although much like New England in appearance, the area’s French influence endures, evident in the language, lifestyle and cuisine. French is the primary language, but English is readily spoken.
The picturesque countryside makes the Eastern Townships a destination for enjoying the outdoors and vacation activities. Fall is a prime time for taking in the scenery along cycling and hiking paths that crisscross the region. In winter the area is a mecca for skiing, snowshoeing and skating. Spring is sugaring season for maple syrup, and summer buzzes with festivals, water sports and golf.
Exploring on Two Wheels
Owing to Quebec’s bike-friendly culture, extensive trails developed for urban use and touring provide a fun way for tourists to experience the area.
A popular cycling trail, the Green Route, crosses the entire province, and 140 miles of it pass through the Townships. The well-marked trail combines designated bike paths, converted railway lines and country roads, joining with other local cycling circuits. A new section of the route beginning in the town of Bromont now allows cyclists to cross the border into Vermont (don’t forget your passport).
Rent a bike for a few hours or a few days in the town of Granby, one hour east of Montreal. It’s a good starting point to explore the Townships with a convenient rental shop (Velo Gare) on the Green Route. Long stretches of smooth pavement make the trail ideal for cyclists of all skill levels and popular for rollerblading.
Picture Perfect Villages
The architectural heritage of the early settlers leaves an eclectic mix of styles in the Eastern Townships. Plan a stop for lunch or an overnight in some of the quaint villages along the suggested driving route, the Townships Trail.
Bromont, best known for its ski mountain, has terraced cafes, shops and a chocolate museum on its main street. Nearby, on the shores of Lake Brome, Knowlton is a storybook village with stylish boutiques and galleries in Victorian-style clapboard buildings.
The town of Magog wraps around one end of a large lake that reaches south into Vermont. In addition to boating and lake activities, Magog features a linear park along the shoreline, lively with walkers, joggers and cyclists.
North Hatley, a hillside village on Lake Massawippi, has been a longtime retreat for well-to-do southerners from the U.S. and attracts many of the same families of past generations. Cyclists enjoy the converted railway path through the village and can ride to the nearby historic Caperton Copper mine, open for underground tours.
What? Canadian Wine?
The Townships are one of Canada’s fastest growing wine producing regions with numerous wineries that invite tours and tasting. A published map of the Route des Vins (designated wine route) makes it easy to discover by car or bike.
Among the first wineries in Quebec, L’Orpailleur, founded in 1982, offers vineyard tours, tasting, a small museum and a fine restaurant. L’Orpailleur’s collection includes remarkably good white wines and an ice wine, not surprisingly, a Quebec specialty thanks to long periods of freezing temperatures.
Visitors shouldn’t miss a stop at Domaine Pinnacle and the chance to try something relatively novel – ice apple wine. The family-owned cidery created its first ice apple wine in 2000. Fermented from six varieties of frozen apples, the acclaimed beverage is described as tasting like “baked apple pie in a glass.”
Eat, Sleep and Spa
The Townships offer a tranquil retreat in lodging ranging from cozy B and B’s to luxury spa resorts. Favorite boutique hotels that make a good base are Le St. Christophe in Granby and Auberge & Spa West Brome, where the excellent chef from France adds a flavor of Provence. Near Magog, the Manoir des Sables is a popular resort hotel, and the region boasts many renowned inns.
For simple meals don’t rule out a lakeside picnic with local cheeses, sausages and regional specialties. Maple products are the most famous specialty, and it is said that the best maple pie can be found at the general store in the tiny village of Frelighsburg, near the Vermont border.
To combine scenic views and perhaps the most memorable dining experience of all, take a ride on the Orford Express tourist train, leaving from the city of Sherbrooke in the heart of the Eastern Townships.
Getting There
Flying to Montreal is an easy half-day trip; from there the Eastern Townships can be reached in an hour by car. Take a few days to explore the Townships and an extra day or two to discover Montreal. The vibrant, multi-ethnic city focuses on the arts and offers local markets and international cuisine, affording travelers the chance to experience a foreign culture without ever leaving the continent or time zone.