Vines And Views: Discover Oregon’s Tualatin Valley And Beyond

A love for Pinot Noir wines inspired my family to visit and taste around Oregon’s famous wine region of Willamette Valley, which boasts more than 700 wineries. We began near Portland in the Tualatin Valley at the northern stretch of Willamette Valley, and made a circular tour exploring some of Northwest Oregon’s beautiful farmland, vibrant towns, coastal scenery and mountain vistas. Whimsical winery names such as “Barking Frog” and “3 Goats Vineyard” caught my attention, and the area was a convenient jump-off point for our weeklong road trip. We sampled Willamette Valley’s revered Pinot Noirs among other varieties, and discovered an array of microbrews, as well Oregon’s vast natural beauty and outdoorsy culture.

From Portland Airport we headed west toward the Vineyard and Valley Scenic Tour Route, which took us along 60 miles of bucolic farmland and hilly countryside. Our base for a few days was the small town of Forest Grove, where we rented a restored Victorian house through Airbnb. Following a quick jaunt to the coast at Pacific City, we looped back to McMinnville, a charming town in the heart of Willamette Valley. We then headed north to Hood River to explore the Mt. Hood region and Columbia River Gorge. Here, I highlight some of our favorite discoveries along the way.

A Taste for Everyone

First, a word about Tualatin Valley: Much of this farm-to-table region with countless produce stands, farmers’ markets and pick-your-own fruits is just on the outskirts of Portland. The area is dotted with alpaca and goat farms, tree farms and walnut and hazelnut farms. As a wine growing region, Tualatin Valley produces many varieties including Chardonnay, Gewurztraminer, Merlot, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Riesling, Rosé and sparkling. What defines the diversity and complexity of Tualatin wines? Unique soil known as Laurelwood, thanks to specific geologic phenomena from ages ago. In addition to wine production, there is a budding saké scene, and Tualatin Valley boasts the nickname “Beervana” for its proliferation of craft microbreweries.

Two blocks from our rental in Forest Grove we found the tasting rooms for 3 Goats Vineyard and Dauntless Wine, alongside delicious eateries including Bites and the very popular Urban Decanter (reservation recommended). Each morning we made a run to Slow Rise Bakehouse for fresh pastries and sour dough bread. We visited several wineries within a 35-min drive and found nearby outdoor activities, riding bikes on the Banks Vernonia Rail Trail and hiking at the beautiful FernHill Wetlands. Talking with wine growers, restaurant chefs and other locals, we began to see how agriculture, wine, nature and history are deeply intertwined in this picturesque region, as generations of farmers work together and adapt to changing markets, weather conditions, and new technologies.

Five Exceptional Tualatin Valley Wineries (tasting reservations recommended)

Amaterra Winery is a new, state-of-the-art winery located in the West Hills on the edge of Portland, the closest estate winery to downtown and first of its kind in Tualatin Valley. In addition to winery tours, Amaterra offers a tasting room, full restaurant and bar, and a wonderful outdoor space at the garden level and on terraces overlooking the valley. A popular spot for Portland locals, Amaterra’s restaurant offers chef-driven cuisine and lively wine-paired dinners.

David Hill Vineyards & Winery – Just outside of Forest Grove, the prestigious winery is situated in a sublime setting with views of Oregon’s Coast Range and a farmhouse homestead that dates to 1883, now serving as the tasting room. David Hill is home to the oldest Pinot Noir vines in Willamette Valley, planted in 1965, and its flagship Pinot Noir, Estate BlackJack, comes exclusively from the old vines.

Raptor Ridge in Newberg was established in 1995, named for the many raptors that glide across the landscape. Its tasting room opens to an outdoor deck with sweeping views of the vines below. Family-owned Raptor Ridge is an esteemed producer of Pinot Noir, Tempranillo, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and more rare varieties in Willamette Valley such as Gruner Veltliner. Winemaker Wallace McKeel ensures a memorable tasting experience, and in nice weather on the deck, it’s tempting to linger for a relaxing afternoon.

Ponzi Vineyard in Sherwood – Established in 1970 by the Ponzi family, the winery was among the pioneering producers that helped establish Willamette Valley as a world-class wine region. Best known for its Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines, Ponzi has elevated its labels over the years and incorporated sustainably focused, gravity-flow techniques. In 2021, Ponzi was acquired by the French Champagne house Bollinger. For a truly memorable visit at the impressive, modern tasting house, sign on for the wine-paired gourmet lunch, an unrivaled experience in a special dining area overlooking the vines. Lunch begins with sparkling wines and includes a three-course meal exquisitely prepared by house Chef Kyle Reisenauer.

Tualatin Estate Vineyard, established in 1973, is also among the original and most respected vineyards of the region. It is one of five vineyards owned by Willamette Valley Vineyards, a large producer in the state. Located in the hills of Forest Grove, Tualatin Estate offers a casual farmhouse tasting room and outdoor experience under the trees, among the vines. It’s a beautiful setting for enjoying a relaxed afternoon.

Coastal Beauty and Rain Forest Hikes

Our destination was Pelican Brewing in Pacific City, a locals’ favorite said to be the only beachfront brewpub in the Pacific Northwest. We enjoyed the craft brews and put our toes in the sand for a walk on the wide beach, watching surfers in wet suits navigating the constantly chilly waves. On the way to Pacific City, we had stopped at Tillamook Creamery for a self-guided tour showcasing the products and workings of the creamery and its liaison arrangement with local dairy farmers. You can’t leave this popular attraction without sampling cheese and indulging in generous scoops of handmade ice cream.

Well fortified, we discovered Cape Lookout State Park for a short hike through the damp forest along a high ridge above the Pacific Ocean. Despite cloudy, misty weather we were rewarded with long-range coastal views between occasional gaps in the tall evergreens.

Mt. Hood and Columbia River Gorge

A tip from the tourist office in Hood River directed us to a wonderful lookout spot to see the 11,249 ft. snow-capped Mt. Hood against clear blue skies. We then drove the scenic 30-mile Fruit Loop, aptly named for the farmland and numerous fruit, flower and produce stands along the country roads. Driving toward the peak of Mt. Hood looming ahead, we also noticed that we could catch a glimpse of Mt. Adams in the rearview mirror.

Next stop, Lost Lake, which did appear “lost” along the long, curvy drive on narrow mountain roads, and the eventual winding descent to a beautiful alpine lake with campground, day-use areas, kayak rentals and a lake trail. We enjoyed the woodsy three-mile hike around the lake, along with paddleboarding, a picnic, and more amazing views of Mt. Hood.

The spectacular Columbia River Gorge on the Washington/Oregon border offers various scenic overlooks, waterfalls, trailheads and attractions along the historic Columbia River Valley Highway and Interstate 84 through the canyon. Multnomah Falls, the longest falls in Oregon, and Vista House Overlook at Crown Point are often crowded with tourists but worth a stop for admiring the phenomenal natural scenery. Heading back to Portland, we realized that on this first-time visit to Oregon, we only scratched the surface exploring one corner of the state, but it left us happily inspired (and thirsty) for more adventure in the Northwest.

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Ann Yungmeyer is a freelance writer. Read more of her work at annyungmeyer.wordpress.com