Bike parking at Hotel Donauschlinge
photo by Ann N. Yungmeyer
Checking the grapes near the village of Spitz
photo by Ann N. Yungmeyer
Durnstein's celebrated blue baroque church tower
photo by Ann N. Yungmeyer
From the hilltop ruins above Durnstein
photo by Ann N. Yungmeyer
Schlogen, the famous bend of the Danube
photo by Ann N. Yungmeyer
Village view from Melk Abbey
photo by Ann N. Yungmeyer
The largest cathedral organ in the world in Passau, Germany
photo by Ann N. Yungmeyer
The mighty Danube, immortalized by Johann Strauss II in the famous Blue Danube Waltz, has served as a main transportation artery in Europe since Roman times. The towpaths alongside the river that were once used by teams of horses to haul cargo barges upstream are now converted to bicycle paths and recreational use.
Connecting with lightly-traveled roads, the bike paths form a long distance cycling route called the Danube Bike Trail, which extends from the Black Forest in Germany through Austria and Slovakia to Budapest, Hungary. The middle section from Passau, Germany to Vienna is touted as Europe’s most popular bike route, and my husband and I were among the estimated 400,000 cyclists annually who ride segments of the stretch.
A favorite with families and retired folk, the well-signposted trail is mostly paved and flat, dotted with monasteries, castle ruins, and terraced vineyards. A leisurely pace of 25–50 kilometers per day allows time to explore the many cultural attractions along the way.
Beginning at the Border
On arrival in Passau, we found the historic city teeming with riverboat passengers and cyclists preparing to embark downstream. Passau offers lively cafes along pedestrian squares, and its impressive St. Stephens Cathedral houses the world’s largest cathedral organ, which can be heard at noon concerts.
We set out from the well-appointed and convenient Hotel Residenz on rental bikes equipped with panniers to carry essentials, while luggage was transported daily to our next destination. The first morning ride took us across the border and to the impressive Rococo-style Engelszell Abbey, Austria’s only Trappist monastery, occupied by eight remaining monks. We continued to Schlogen, the famous bend where the river actually reverses direction in an S-curve loop. From the well-situated Hotel Donauschlinge, a 30-minute uphill hike leads to a lookout with splendid views of nature’s anomaly.
Cultural Capital
Arriving in the city of Linz, we found a unique blend of history and modern style. Our high-rise Hotel Arcotel was easy to spot near the bike trail, and although ostensibly a misfit on the landscape, inside we found a pleasant, contemporary design and first-rate restaurant.
Linz earned the title of “European Capital of Culture” in 2009 for its creative use of modern technology in the arts. The city features dramatic art installations, rooftop bridges, buildings that glow in color, and the renowned Ars Electronica, a digital art and technology center. From strolling the busy medieval square to discovering Linz Castle and art museums, a visit to Austria’s third largest city isn’t complete without sampling the Linzer Torte, originated in 1653 and acclaimed as the oldest cake recipe in the world.
Further east on our route, the graceful hilltop Benedictine Abbey of Melk is one of the most outstanding abbeys in Europe and a key stop on the bike trail. The grand baroque complex, built in the early 1700s, was recently restored to feature its many ceiling frescos, a 100,000-volume library and outdoor gardens. For a unique experience, the monks’ noon prayer (sung and spoken in German) is open to visitors.
“Crown Jewel” of the Danube Scenery
We rode into the Wachau Valley on the south side of the river and took a ferry across to Spitz, a hillside village that marks the beginning of the Wachau wine region. Recognized for producing excellent white wines including Gruner Veltliner and Riesling, the area is quite popular for touring during fall harvest and in spring when the apricot orchards are in bloom. Our home for the night was Gasthaus Prankl, a 7th-generation inn, situated below a 13th century fortress ruin. From the cobbled town center we made our way up a steep climb to a historic defensive post known as the Red Gate to enjoy splendid views of the river valley and vineyards.
Weissenkirchen and Durnstein are storybook wine villages just a few kilometers apart. Durnstein’s restaurant terraces overlook the river and lie in the shadow of the town’s architectural masterpiece, a blue-towered, baroque monastery church built in 1733. Lunch can easily be worked off with a hike to the hilltop castle ruin where Richard the Lion-Hearted was held captive in 1192, and where undoubtedly, the most panoramic views along the Danube are found. Throughout the wine region, there are opportunities to visit “heuriges,” private vintners that open to the public to introduce the current year’s wine, served with simple foods.
Finding Mozart
From the Wachau Valley and the 1,000-year old city of Krems, the bike path winds through wider valleys and sunflower fields, but if time runs short, the train to Vienna is an easy hop. We ended our tour with a trolley ride and walk through Austria’s capital, a thriving city that invites one to delve into its musical past while enjoying the contemporary vibe. Visitors can see Mozart’s house, now a museum, or take in a concert at Schonbrunn Palace or the Opera. On this short stay, we settled for piped in symphony sounds at one of many famous Viennese coffeehouses.
If you go: Guided or unguided trips along the Danube Cycle Trail are available through tour companies such as Experience Plus and the Chattanooga-based Bike Tours Direct. Countless others organize itineraries and provide transport services to hotels and Gasthaus (guesthouse) along the way.
Visit http://www.germany.travel/en/ and http://www.austria.info/us.
Read more travel adventures at www.annyungmeyer.wordpress.com